We Slept Inside a Great Wall Watchtower: A 2-Day Jinshanling, Gubeikou & Mutianyu Trip
My daughter was six years old when she slept inside a Great Wall watchtower.
This was a two-day Great Wall watchtower camping trip — hiking Jinshanling on day one, camping overnight at Gubeikou, finishing at Mutianyu on day two. On the second morning we woke up before dawn, unzipped the tent, and climbed to the top of the tower in the dark. By the time the sun came up over the mountains, it was just the two of us standing on the wall with nowhere else to be.
That’s not the kind of thing you plan expecting it to be perfect. It just was.
We booked through a tour company that handled everything: transport, gear, tents, sleeping bags, meals, and an English-speaking guide. We didn’t carry much. We just walked.
Here’s what the two days actually looked like.
Short version: Yes, a 6-year-old can do this. Jinshanling is steep in places but not relentless. The overnight in the tower is the highlight of the whole trip. Book through a tour company that handles camping gear — don’t try to sort it yourself.
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What's In This Article?
How We Set It Up
We booked through a tour company that ran the whole thing — and the crew was more organized than we expected. A dedicated driver picked us up from our hotel in Beijing and stayed with us for the full two days, driving between sections and back to the city at the end. Around Jinshanling, a separate local driver took care of the tent setup and all the meals. Our English-speaking guide’s job was just to guide the hike and eat with us — that was it. Everyone had one role. Nothing fell through the cracks.
All we brought was ourselves and a day pack.
Camping on the Great Wall is a gray area. At popular sections it’s not permitted. Some experienced hikers do camp independently in remote, less-visited stretches — but that involves real planning, local knowledge, and accepted risk. For most families, and for the Gubeikou section specifically, going through an approved tour company is the right call. They handle permits, gear, guide, and meals. If someone offers a DIY camping option at a tourist section, that’s a red flag.
The three sections are not connected by trail. You hike Jinshanling, drive to Gubeikou to camp, then drive to Mutianyu the next day. The wall connects them historically, not physically.
Tip: If someone in your group wants to skip a hike, this setup works well. They can relax at the base, explore the area, or wait in the car. It’s not a hardship.
Day 1: Jinshanling
The Hike
Jinshanling is about 130 km from central Beijing, roughly a two-hour drive. We had lunch at the base before starting — traditional Chinese dishes included with the tour. Simple, delicious and filling. Eat before you start. You’ll want it.
The wall here is in better shape than most guides suggest. The stretch we hiked was solid stone throughout — towers you could walk through, not around. The path climbs steeply, levels off, then climbs again. Physical but manageable. The views start immediately and don’t stop.
My daughter handled it well — better than expected, honestly. She was ahead of me most of the time, running on the flatter stretches and going down the steps on her own. Sometimes she’d reach back for my hand on the steeper parts, then let go and carry on. She was six. I was the one carrying the backpack — her camera, the Insta360 stick, and snacks. At one point on a steeper section the guide took it from me without being asked and carried it until the ground leveled out. Small thing, but that’s the kind of guide he was.
The views from Jinshanling are as good as Mutianyu, if not better. Fewer tourist facilities, wilder feel, more open sky. The wall snakes over ridges in both directions and there are almost no other people. We had long stretches entirely to ourselves. At one point we passed two women walking the wall with trash bags with garbage they picked along the wall — that’s how they keep it. It works.
Along the way, not far from the entrance after the first climb, there’s a traditional Chinese pavilion set into the wall — red columns, painted ceiling with blue and green beams and floral details, surrounded by trees. We stopped there. Most people walk past it without looking up. Look up. The ceiling alone is worth the stop.
Tip: Wear proper shoes. The stones are uneven and some sections have no handrails. Bring water and snacks — there are no vendors on the wall. Our guide brought sunscreen and shared it with us, which saved us on an exposed July day — pack your own but good to know some guides come prepared.
After the hike we went back to the base and took a shower before heading to camp. Worth knowing — you’ll want one after a full day on the wall in July, and it made the overnight feel a lot more comfortable.
Night: Camping at Gubeikou
The Tower
The local driver took us all to the watchtower at Gubeikou, then set up the tent while we were there. Two-person tent, sleeping bags — all from the tour company. The tower walls are solid and thick — it didn’t feel remote or exposed. It felt secure. Stone floor, thick sleeping bags. Comfortable. Not hotel comfortable, but genuinely good sleep.
All night we heard what sounded like strong wind — constant, low, steady. In the morning we looked out and realized it was a large river rushing below. We hadn’t even known it was there.
The guide had his own tent in the same tower.
The Sunrise
My phone had died overnight. No alarm, no plan. I just woke up, unzipped the tent, and climbed to the top of the tower in the not so dark anymore. I had 2 spare Insta360 batteries with me so I used them to catch the sunrise as it came.
A few minutes later I started heading back down. My daughter was already at the bottom of the stairs looking for me — she had put on my Great Wall t-shirt and come to find me on her own. We turned around and went back up together. The stairs to the top are about a foot and a half deep — narrow, uneven stone steps in the dark. She made it up after we take them slowly and carefully. We watched the sun finish coming up over the mountains, lighting up the wall in both directions.
Tip: Bring a warm layer for the sunrise even if the days are warm. It gets cold before dawn at elevation.
Day 2: Mutianyu
After breakfast at the base, we drove to Mutianyu — about an hour by car. Before heading up to the wall our guide took us to a tea shop at the base — a demonstration of how different Chinese teas are prepared and served, followed by a chance to buy. We tried several varieties. It was a low-pressure stop, genuinely interesting, and a good way to ease into the day before the climb. Our guide arranged it as part of the tour.
Tip: If your tour includes a tea demo stop, don’t rush it. It takes about 30-45 minutes and the teas are worth trying. You’re not obligated to buy anything.
Mutianyu is well kept and the views are good. But honest comparison — the section we hiked at Jinshanling was just as good, if not better. Less crowded, equally well maintained, and the setting felt more raw. Mutianyu is a great finish to the trip but don’t expect an upgrade from Jinshanling. It’s a different experience, not a better one.
We took the chairlift up and back down. The toboggan line was very long so we skipped it — chairlift both ways was fine. Good views, no wait.
Mutianyu is 2.25 km with 23 towers. Two hours covers several towers and the best views. Done before noon in July — the right call. Some of the tower steps are steep. Mutianyu has an easy reputation but don’t expect it to be flat. Wear the same shoes you hiked in.
Lunch was a buffet included with the tour, at a restaurant near Mutianyu. Worth staying for.
Tip: The views east from the higher towers are some of the best on the wall.
Before You Go
A few things specific to China that are worth sorting before you leave home — not visa stuff, just the practical day-to-day things that catch first-timers off guard.
Payments This one takes some figuring out. We set up Alipay before the trip but it didn’t work when we got there — security verification kept blocking it. What actually worked: we used a Wise card at ATMs to get cash, paid cash for the first few days, then got WeChat Pay connected to a credit card and used that for the rest of the trip. That combination — cash to start, WeChat once it’s set up — is a solid plan B if Alipay gives you trouble.
Foreign credit cards are hit and miss at local shops and small vendors. Don’t rely on them alone.
VPN Google, Instagram, YouTube, Facebook, WhatsApp — all blocked in China. Download and set up a VPN before you land since VPN sites are also blocked once you’re in the country. We used Outline VPN and it worked well. Set it up at home, not at the airport.
SIM Card We bought our SIM card on Amazon before the trip — search China Unicom or China Mobile travel SIM. You can schedule the activation date when you order. Set it to your first day in China and it activates automatically on arrival. No airport lines, no scrambling. Other options: international eSIM through Airalo, airport SIM at Beijing on arrival, or pocket WiFi for groups.
Where to Stay in Beijing We stayed at Jian Guo Garden Hotel — central, comfortable, and a straightforward pickup point for the tour. Your dedicated driver picks up from your hotel so location matters. Dongcheng District and the areas around it put you close to the Forbidden City and give you easy access to the rest of the city. Avoid staying too far out — Beijing is big and a distant hotel adds unnecessary travel time on departure morning.
Translation Download Google Translate offline for Chinese before you go. The camera translation feature is useful for menus and signs. WeChat’s built-in translator also works without a VPN.
We paid ¥4,800 plus $100 USD for the full tour package — approximately $772 USD total at the rate when we traveled (around ¥0.14 per yuan). That covered everything — dedicated Beijing driver for both days, local Jinshanling driver, English-speaking guide, tents, sleeping bags, all entry tickets, and all meals (lunch at Jinshanling, dinner at camp, breakfast, and the buffet lunch near Mutianyu). Nothing extra on the day.
| Item | Cost |
|---|---|
| Tour package (all-inclusive) | ¥4,800 + $100 USD (~$772 USD at time of travel) |
Exchange rates change — use a current converter to get today’s equivalent. Ask upfront what’s included — ours covered everything.
What to Pack
- Broken-in shoes with grip — not new, not flat-soled
- More water than you think (no vendors at Jinshanling or Gubeikou)
- Snacks for the hike and for the kids
- Sunscreen — exposed sections have no shade, especially in summer. Our guide had some and shared, but bring your own
- Warm layer for the sunrise — it’s colder than you expect
- Headlamp for moving around the tower at night
- A good day pack — you’ll be carrying the camera, snacks, water, and anything else for the both of you. Pack light but don’t leave the snacks behind
- Spare battery pack — your phone will die and there are no outlets on the wall. Bring a spare camera battery and Insta360 battery too if you’re shooting with anything other than your phone
The tour company provided tents, sleeping bags, and camp meals. We didn’t carry any of that.
FAQ
Can a young child do the Jinshanling hike?
Our daughter was six and she was ahead of us most of the time — running on flat sections, going down steps on her own, reaching back for a hand on the steeper parts then carrying on. If your child is used to walking on uneven ground and takes instruction well, this is very doable. If they tire easily or aren’t used to sustained outdoor activity, start with Mutianyu first.
Do you need a tour company for this trip?
For most families, yes. Camping at popular sections without authorization isn’t permitted. Some experienced hikers do camp independently in remote stretches of the wall, but that requires solid planning, local knowledge, and comfort with uncertainty. For a family trip covering Jinshanling, Gubeikou, and Mutianyu, an approved tour company handles the permits, gear, guide, transport, and meals — and takes the guesswork out completely.
Is camping in a watchtower safe?
Yes. Our guide was in the same tower. The walls are solid and thick — it didn’t feel exposed at all, it felt secure. The main things to manage are the cold before sunrise and the uneven stone floor — both handled easily with the gear the tour company provides.
What was the hardest part of the trip?
The Jinshanling hike is the most physical part — steep climbs, uneven stones, no shade on exposed sections. Start early and take your time. The tower steps at Mutianyu also catch people off guard — steeper than expected for a section with an easy reputation. Wear proper hiking shoes for both days, not just day one.
Is July a good time to do this?
We got lucky with the weather — clear skies, warm but not brutal heat. July carries a real rain risk and can be hazy. Going early each day helped us avoid the worst heat. October or May would be more reliable weather-wise, but July worked for us.
What if one person in your group doesn’t want to hike?
It’s fine. The setup works well for mixed groups — whoever wants to skip a section can wait at the base, explore the area around the trailhead, or stay in the car. Just tell the tour company when you book so they can plan accordingly.
Are there bathrooms on the wall?
Not on the wall itself at Jinshanling. Use the facilities at the base before you start and plan accordingly. At Mutianyu there are bathrooms at the base and near the chairlift station.
How long is the Jinshanling hike?
The section we hiked took about 3-4 hours at a relaxed pace with a young child. Your tour company will plan the route based on your group’s pace and fitness level.
What should I wear?
Hiking shoes with grip — not new ones, not sneakers, not sandals. Layers for the morning since it’s cool early even in summer. A hat and sunscreen for exposed sections. Comfortable clothes you can move freely in — some of the step climbs are high and steep.
Can you see other sections of the wall from Jinshanling?
On a clear day yes — you can see Simatai and Gubeikou from the higher points at Jinshanling. The wall running into the distance in both directions is one of the defining images of the hike. It’s what makes the views here equal to or better than Mutianyu.
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